Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24: the key shows – in pictures

1 year ago 18

RIGHT SIDEBAR TOP AD

leather-esque dresses sourced from olive oil production waste and biodegradable sequins crafted from seaweed and agricultural waste.

A surprise performance by the Danish band Laid Back (best known for their international hits White Horse and Sunshine Reggae) kickstarted Sunflower’s show. Models walked around the duo as the crowd sang along. For its eleventh season, founder Ulrik Pedersen said he wanted to explore “what a classic Sunflower collection looked like.” Seventies silhouettes dominated with flared trousers, sheer shirting and double denim. Elsewhere, models in battered leather jackets and a sleeveless vest heightened the chilled out rocker aesthetic.

trouser legs were put through the office shredder, suspenders were styled backwards and paper invoices and stock price indexes were used as motifs on shirting. T-shirts, shirts and baseball caps emblazoned with “Money, Powder, Glory” had plenty of street style appeal.

Entitled “Don’t Stop, We’re Dreaming”, Elisabet Stamm looked to her past for inspiration. Oversized T-shirts and hoodies featured “really bad images” of horses and dogs Stamm had taken on her digital camera as a child. Held in a sportshall, Stamm leaned into the athletic and loose silhouettes which have become her signature. Styling details such as ornamented chain belts and Adidas Samba trainers, with plain laces swapped out for printed laces, had plenty of youth appeal. Ninety per cent of the collection was made from deadstock materials, including drawstring parachute pants and track jackets.

Instead of a traditional show, the Danish designer teamed up with the Dutch performance artist Brit Liberg on a memorable fashion week debut. In a large warehouse, curtains were pulled back to reveal plastic mannequins clad in various looks from Skovgaard. As Liberg’s father played the harpsichord, she wore only white boots and matching pants while she tried on various looks (featuring lace, sequins and feathers), treating the audience like a mirror, mimicking the poses of the static mannequins and stomping around the display as she got dressed and undressed.

As winners of Zalando’s visionary award, London based duo Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard made their Danish catwalk debut. Taking inspiration from a visit to Avebury, a Neolithic stone circle in England, a giant standing stone sat on the catwalk as folkloric inspired prints were laser etched on to denim, a technique that reduces water wastage. “We’ve created the same symbols for thousands of years,” Russo said backstage. “This language left on the walls is the reason why today we understand where we come from.”

“A lot of my pieces don’t change a lot in the rain so we decided to just embrace it,” Amalie Røge Hove said post show. Her collection opened Copenhagen fashion week with models walking around an outdoor courtyard in a torrential downpour. Earlier this year, Røge Hove won Woolmark’s Karl Lagerfeld prize for innovation and this collection bore the results of her experiments with different yarns and techniques. Circulose made from textile waste was crafted into stretchy crop tops while recycled nylon was trapped in layers giving an almost hairlike effect.

London in the 90s and ornate Parisian hotels were the main references on design duo Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimarsdottir’s mood board this season. Latex dresses were given a “feminine take” with intricate corsage detailing, traditional heritage check prints appeared on form fitting coats and corsets and swishing tassels on everything from earrings to nipple pasties were a nod to hotel room keyrings. A series of tulle looks captured the Danish duo’s high-low aesthetic – the final fused a white vest with swirls of netting and sequins.

Remain

“I feel like the Remain woman is somebody who wants to be sexy but she wants to be sexy in a more elevated way,” said Martin Asbjørn, Remain’s new creative director, after the show. The Danish designer had co-created the spring/summer 2024 collection with the brand’s CEO Denise Christensenm, but will take the lead solo next season. “Our customer knows what she wants to show off and what she doesn’t want to show off,” Asbjørn said about the collection that featured everything from structured suiting to sheer sequined tops and specially coated denim that gave it a leatherlike effect.

Photograph: James Cochrane, courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week

It has been eight years since Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks’ bright coloured Cappotto coats with giant fur trims went viral. Last year they stopped using fur and are now on mission to prove they can do more than just outerwear. Playing with the idea of “wardrobe building”, this season the focus was on the “perfect holiday.” There were plenty of easy holiday hacks, such as using swimwear as evening wear and striped shirts as beach cover-ups. There was a nod to the 90s too. Alana Hadid (Bella and Gigi’s half-sister) wore a blue sequin skirt over jeans and flip-flops.

Entitled “Homecoming”, Stine Goya turned her street into a catwalk. Models walked around trestle tables topped with colourful jelly moulds containing accessories. Mismatched plates were donated by Goya’s neighbours who watched the show from their balconies. The idea of home transcended the clothing. Instead of sweatpants, there were silky two piece sets for WFH and pearl adorned pieces made for fanciful dinner party dressing. Goya said she wanted the casting to reflect the sense of community. Model Helena Christensen, her friend of 25 years, closed the show.

Vibskov said his starting point was looking at how “we systemize and categorise things.” This idea then shifted to the popularity of unboxing videos, then the idea of delivery vans moving boxes before exploring the sport of boxing. “Not so much the violence but the mind games during the presentation,” he explained. “I actually find that more interesting than the fighting.” The MC KyleLondonnn presided over the show, encouraging models to “get into the looks and get into the fashion.” Many of the fabrics were recycled, one look was even shown the previous season.

Read Entire Article